The wood pile and rib cooker at Big Country’s BBQ are pictured.

Thorpe is pictured at the chicken pit of Big Country’s BBQ.

Piles of locally delivered logs flank the cooking areas.

“We only cook with wood,” said Keith “Big Country” Thorpe.

Thorpe comes by his childhood nickname honestly. A towering guy who grew up in the countryside of Western New York, Thorpe has traveled the United States as a truck driver and lived in Kentucky for five years. He’s had some of the best barbecue in the south – and now is making his own barbecue in the north.

“I’m from everywhere,” he said but after returning “home” he realized there was no barbecue in the area that brought the southern culture, barbecue and soul food that he had come to appreciate.

“Nothing up here compares,” Thorpe said.

Manning the chicken pit Thorpe first injects the fresh chicken that’s about to hit the grill with his homemade marinade and then “mops” it as it’s cooking. Mopping is a pit term used to describe using a smaller version of a rag mop to apply additional flavor and moisture to the meat to keep it from drying out during the grilling process. Slow wood fire cooking and continued mopping is how Big Country’s chicken ends up with the deep, dark, softer skin that is the tasty finished product.

On ribs is Matt Micelli, who’s family business parking lot is home to Big Country’s BBQ. “Succulent and moist” is how first time customer Tom Handest described the ribs, licking his fingers “the meat quite literally fell off the bones.”

For now Big Country’s BBQ will continue using its mobile trailer on the lot. However, a more permanent establishment could be in the future. Evolving daily, Thorpe said he’s taking it a day at a time. Available for large orders and on site party and catering events by calling 716-785-5666, Big Country’s BBQ is already slated to be serving up at the Kinzua Heritage Arts & Music Festival later in August in Russell. Until then Thorpe and his crew will be on the lot Tuesday through Sunday from noon until the food is gone, offering a choice of a chicken or rib meal which includes two sides – beans, potato salad or macaroni salad – and a dinner roll. Cash and CashApp are accepted forms of payments at this time.