Times Observer photo by Lorri Drumm Lander Volunteer Fire Department is one of many vendors offering a variety of foods and drinks during the Warren County Fair this week. Some folks who attend the fair regularly said the one-of-a-kind “Hair Bear” sauce that one member of the fire department makes is a must-have during fair week.

Every county fair has it. That one special spot that has that one food you just gotta try.

While there’s lots to choose from at the Warren County Fair, folks in-the-know — the ones who attend regularly — suggested the “Hair Bear” sauce found only at the Lander Volunteer Fire Department booth was the one thing everyone should try. They were not wrong.

Ron Wilson, also known as Hair Bear, has been creating the sauce for a long time. He tweaked a recipe he got years ago.

He didn’t offer to hand over the recipe, but he gave it a general description — “sweet onion with a kick.” Not a big kick, but just right. One might say a perfect kick, like a field goal that goes evenly through the uprights.

The sauce isn’t in a container where folks can help themselves. You have to ask for it. And you can ask for it on anything you order.

“It started out mainly just for sausage sandwiches,” Wilson said. “But now people put it on burgers or just about anything.”

The Warren County Fair runs daily through Saturday at the fairgrounds in Pittsfield.